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Posts Tagged Pendants

Diamond Heart Pendant, Circa 1895

by on February 14th, 2013


At the end of the 19th century, platinum was for the first time being used to set diamonds, though still with the historically used gold backing.

Seen from behind, the pendant’s setting is almost entirely pierced and filed away. It creates the appearance of a honeycomb in gold and platinum whose engineering would make Buckminister Fuller proud. Perfect strength with a minimum of material, though a maximum of labor.

After the sawing and filing, cotton string and pith wood charged with fine abrasive powders and carried by beeswax were “thrummed” to mirror polish the cutaways. The process creates the perfect seats for each small diamond.

From the back just as much as the front, this is perfection seldom seen.

A Small Gem from a Powerful Empire

by on July 31st, 2010

Art Deco Moghul Carved Emerald & Diamond Pendant

Art Deco Moghul Carved Emerald & Diamond Pendant, $19,500

The Moghul Empire of 1526-1857 was a period of unparalleled power, when wealth and Indian culture flourished — none more so than with its extraordinary supply of gems and jewelry. Not only did it provide some of the greatest gems known, but the legacy of style and design has influenced jewelry houses around the world ever since.

This influence was never stronger than during the Art Deco period, when all the great firms were intoxicated by all things Indian. In particular, the refashioning of older stones to contemporary objects was “de rigeur” for the old Indian royal families, as well as their Occidental cousins.

This Art Deco pendant is a perfect example of how Western taste became seduced by this genre. The small symmetrical platinum and diamond cap sits on top of a nineteenth century emerald bead of approximately 30.00 carats, exquisitely carved with foliate lotus motifs and delicate vertical fluting.

This carving is typical of the Moghul style, where naturalistic motifs would cover every possible area. Made in England in the 1920’s, it is a wonderful combination of simplicity and decoration, and is as wearable today as when it was first made.